While gutter installation can be done by homeowners themselves, they must avoid committing mistakes that could endanger the occupants’ safety or damage the house because of improper gutter installation.

These are the five most common mistakes related to gutter installation and ways to avoid them:

1. Wrong Pitch Calculation

Gutters are installed with a slight pitch to allow water to flow down towards the downspouts. The pitch is normally one to two inches of decline for every forty feet of gutter length. This also allows dirt and debris to flow down and keep the gutter clean and clog-free. Amateur roofers and beginners usually forget to give the gutter this slight pitch.

2. Wrong Gutter Type

Buying gutters can sometimes be confusing because they come in different sizes, gauges, materials and shapes. Problems occur when you select the wrong gutter type for your home. Buy the most durable material within your budget. Consult with your roof contractor or supplier on the right size and width of gutter suited for your home. Most houses today use a 26 gauge 5 to 6-inch wide K-style aluminum gutter.

3. Wrong Gutter Location

People assume that since rainwater runs off the edge of the roof then they should place the gutters also on the roof’s edge. This is actually wrong practice because water tends to pull back up on the underside of the roof through capillary action and drips down under the roof. It will slide down the fascia and soffit, damaging boards along the way. Position the gutter a few inches under the roof to prevent this from happening. Another solution is installing drip edge under the first course of shingles.

4. Improper Welding of Seams

Sectional gutters have to be welded together and sealed to prevent water leakage. The seams are the weakest points of gutters and usually the areas where problems occur. Exposure to harsh weather and extreme temperatures could crack the seams and damage the gutter. Be careful when welding together and sealing seams because they present the biggest potential problem. If seamless rain gutters are available in your area, use them instead.

5. Inadequate Hanger Spacing

Gutters are fixed to the roof with the use of hangers that must be carefully spaced together to provide a proper lift and support to the gutter. The spacing between the hangers are around three feet or less. Gutters could sag from improper spacing of the support system and tug at the whole gutter system. Left alone, the gutter could eventually rip off the side of your home. Check the instructions of the manufacturers and place the hanger accordingly.

Some people—particularly the do-it-yourself owners—prefer to do repair works on their roofs themselves instead of hiring licensed roofers. While this may save them money that would otherwise have been spent to pay for professional contractors, there is a risk they might commit mistakes.

Below are some of the most common mistakes in shingles installation that may be committed by inexperienced roofers plus their remedies and prevention based on United Home Experts:

1. No Starter Strip

Employ starter shingles starting at the rake and going into the eaves. The starter shingles are cut by around nine inches for new construction to fit the existing first course. For three-tab repair shingles, the measurement is five inches. The first shingles should be cut by six inches so that the shingles could stagger out of the first course.

2. Misaligned Shingles

This creates an unsightly look on the roof. Make sure the vertical and horizontal alignments are in place. Use a chalk line when installing new shingles. For repairs, simply align the new shingles to the existing shingles. Set horizontal chalk lines every 10 inches starting from the bottom. Vertical chalk lines are made every 36 inches starting from the ridge to the end of the shingles on the first course.

3. Shingles Not Properly Nailed

Always read the product specifications by the manufacturer on the number of shingles to be installed based on local wind zone. Three-tab shingles usually require at least four nails although the number of nails could go up to six in places where strong winds blow.

Aside from the number of nails required to properly fix the shingles to the roof, the location where the nails are driven is just as important. Again, look at the manufacturer’s instructions to know where the nails should be placed on the shingles. Know also the length of nails required for the right shingles. As a rule of thumb, nail penetration should be at least three-quarters of an inch.

4. Using the Wrong Cement

Improper use of incompatible cement and other adhesives could further damage the shingles. Asphalt cement should only be used on the underside of shingles.

5. Shingles Do Not Overhang the Eaves

Just make sure the shingles overhang at the eaves by not less than half an inch. Ensure that there is enough space between the shingles by about one-sixteenth of an inch. Affix three inches of shingles above the eaves, the number of nails depending on local and geographic conditions.

The Bostitch RN46-1 Coil Roofing Nailer is practically every professional roofers dream. It is compact, durable, lightweight and easy to use. It is a must-have for metal roofing installation.

And because it has an easy-to-use design, this roofing nailer also suits homeowners who want to do some minor and basic roofing maintenance and fixes. It was specifically designed to ensure professionals and homeowners alike would not find themselves in limbo operating it.

Boasts Long-Lasting Performance

Anyone looking for a roofing nailer that could provide long-lasting performance amid harsh weather conditions and even throughout a long storage time should be checking out the Bostitch RN46-1 Coil Roofing Nailer. Previous versions of this tool lasted for nine and more years, proving its tested durability and ensuring its high-level capacity.

In a nutshell, the Bostitch RN46-1 is a 3/4-inch to 1-3/4-inch coil roofing nailer with an adjustable depth control, full round driver, body and magazine wear guards, and side-load canister for fast nail loading.

It also has an adjustable shingle guide, so operators can have an easier time spacing the shingles, and a lockout mechanism that prevents firing when the canister is empty.

However, the thing that truly sets this roofing nailer apart is the durable yet lightweight magnesium housing and carbide tips, which provides the tool’s capacity to last for decades. If that doesn’t make the cut, it also has a seven-year limited warranty.

Promises Power and Accuracy

It can be difficult to be accurate when you have a less powerful tool in your hand. Working on a roof, exterior drywall, insulation board and fiber cement application can be quite daunting without the proper tool.

The Bostitch RN46-1 is powerful in the sense that it can deliver 410 in./lbs. of force at 100 psi, and can drive up to 100 nails per minute. It has two firing methods—contact trip and sequential trip.

The contact trip has a bouncing motion that is great for large areas like roofs while a sequential trip is chosen for its precision applications mostly for a finished work.

And because it has an integrated depth dial, this tool provides fast, tool-less depth-of-drive adjustments. The five-setting dial allows you to find the perfect driving depth, which includes flush mount driving, shallow driving, and countersinking.

The only problem seems to be that the user has to change between the sequential and contact triggers, making it a bit uncomfortable for some. It would have been easier if they can change triggers without having to uncork things. There were also some jamming problems, though these were quite minimal.

The Bostitch RN46-1 Coil Roofing Nailer measures 10-1/2 x 4-5/8 x 10-5/8 inches (LxWxH) and weighs 4.8 pounds. Basically, it is designed for comfort and durability, making this  a must-have tool not only for a construction business, but for the home as well.

There are several reasons why fall is the best time to call Chicago roofers to start working on your roof replacement. Networx recently shared some tips showing why you should take advantage of that season and not wait until winter or summer to do it.

Ideal Weather Condition

Elements such as rain, summer wind, and instances of hurricanes can really get your roof beat up. The effects are multiplied when it is already near the end of its lifespan. Any holes or cracks left behind will get worse once winter starts. That will certainly present a lot of problems to your household.

Fall presents an ideal condition when the weather is more stable, especially when the thermometer reading is at 45 to 50 degrees. The said temperature is favorable for the installation of asphalt shingles, because the ambient warmth lets the seal strips of the shingles to melt and adhere properly in a process known as “thermal sealing.”

Chicago Roofers Can Work Easily

During this time, the temperature is not too hot. Thus, it presents a better working condition to any roofer. That will help roofers deliver a faster and more efficient job.

In addition, the mild temperature will prevent the shingles from getting brittle during installation. Getting it brittle will increase its tendency to break while pressing it in place. That factor will also force roofers to nail them manually with a hammer instead of using roofing guns. Of course, that will add to their burden and may result to a longer completion period of their work.

Energy Savings

Getting your roof ready before winter starts will help you shave off the cost of your energy bills. If you have your HVAC system installed in the attic, a roofing with a good condition will let you maximize its effectiveness in maintaining the temperature of the home.

Furthermore, having your roof replaced will allow you to avail of the federal tax credit for energy efficiency until December 21, 2016. This is subject to certain conditions though like the roofing material must pass the requirements. You have to present receipts and product labels too for the income tax return.

Reminder

When booking roofers in Chicago for the job, make sure to do it in advance. That is because many homeowners also prefer autumn to have their roofs replaced. Calling them at a short notice might place you in their queue, which will delay the project.

Contractors and homeowners consider different things before deciding on the materials to be used in log cabin roofing. These are the design of the cabin, location, construction budget, and other matters such as the use of green or eco-friendly design and materials.

General Guidelines in Cabin Roofing

Roof Design. A rule of thumb in log cabin roofing is that the design should blend with the topography or surroundings. A well-designed roof should present a challenge for those searching for it among the landscape.

Roof Pitch. The pitch of the roof is also important in roof design. As a general rule, the steeper the pitch, the more expensive and attractive it becomes. Pitch is determined by the vertical rise of the roof over the horizontal run. A common angle for pitched roof is 12, meaning that the roof rises six inches for every foot of horizontal length.

Cold or Hot Roof. Another factor that has to be considered is whether the owner wants a cold or hot roof design. In cities with cold climate (generally in the northern part) a cold roof is desirable for a log cabin. A ventilation is purposely built on the attic, which allows air to escape on the side. This design prevents ice dams from forming on the eaves.

A hot roof design is suited for cabins located in warm climates. Unlike a cold roof design, it has no ventilation on the side for air to escape through. Instead, an insulation is installed on the underside of the roof to prevent the entry of heat into the cabin.

Timber Roof System. Some people prefer timber roof systems on their log cabin for their aesthetic values. This type of roofing can be costly for some homeowners. You can save up to a third of your budget for a timber roof system by opting instead for the conventional truss or rafter roof. You can then add decorative timbers afterward for the same look.

Roof Color. Aside from the material used on the roof of the log cabin, serious consideration is also given in the color of the roof since it affects energy efficiency. Light colors are advisable for hot climates since they reflect sunlight and absorb minimal heat. Dark colors are suited for cold climates because they absorb heat, which is transferred from the roof to the interior of the cabin.

Green Roofs. If you prefer “green” roofs, materials for eco-friendly roofs are available. For instance, a metal roof is ideal if you want to tap rainwater for gardening. Green roofing does not cost more than conventional roofing.

One of the difficult parts in house construction is roofing. Unlike the flooring and walls where you can perform the work while staying on the ground, roofing requires you to go up the house in order to install roofing materials.

Risk of falling is ever present when you go up elevated places, more so when you are working on the roof of a partially-finished house. That is why strict observance of safety precautions is the number one rule while doing roof installation to prevent accidents that could cause injuries.

A roofer’s best friend while working on the roof is a ladder. This common but important tool assists workers to go up the roof and do their work. Just make sure that you are using ladders that meet the safety standards for the type of work you are doing. Also, use the right type of ladder since some ladders work best for particular jobs but not on others.

Among the different kinds of ladders, these are the best for roofing installation:

Step Ladders

This is the most common type of ladder used in the construction industry. They are shaped like an “A” and are self-supporting. This means that you do not have to lean them against the wall to be able to climb on it. If you are working on the edges or near the edges of the roof, step ladder is the best one to use. You can cover more areas of the roof since your ladder is not resting on the walls.

Extension Ladders

Unlike a step ladder, extension ladder needs to be leaned against the wall or other support to use. It consists of a “base” that is placed firmly on the ground and an extension part, called the “fly,” which is used to reach high places. The “fly” is a movable piece that retracts to the base when not in use. Roofers normally use this type of ladder in going up the roof from the sides because it can reach higher areas compared to the step ladder.

Roof Ladders

The ideal type of ladder when working on pitched roofs. This is actually a variation of the extension ladder, typified by a hook at the end. It has two wheels at the upper end designed to prevent damage to tiles or slates when pushed up the roof. Opposite the wheels is a hook that is used to fit over the side of the roof ridge to prevent the ladder from slipping down the pitched roof.

If you want your roof to last long and provide maximum protection to your mobile home for years to come, proper installation is a must as well as regular maintenance. Do-it-yourself mobile home roofing is practical and saves you money from installation costs. However, make sure that you follow the correct procedure in roof installation.

While installing roofs on your mobile homes, remember these practical and useful guides to ensure your safety and the best result from your work.

1. Working on the Roof

Walk near the edge of the roof when walking on the roof because that is usually the strongest area of the roof. For additional safety precaution, use a plywood or boardwalk when walking on the center of the roof.

2. Proper Use of Ladder

Ladder should be extended by at least three feet above the roof for convenience and safety. It is easier to get on and off the roof with the extra ladder protruding on the side of the roof serving as handhold. Secure the ladder with rope or other fastener to prevent accidental slippage while you are climbing.

3. Scaffolding for Convenience

Use a scaffolding instead of a ladder when you are installing foam closure strips or insulating the roof cavity on the edges of the roof. It may not be safe or convenient to use a ladder when doing this part of the work.

4. Wear Protective Gears

Protect yourself from dust and other fine materials when cleaning insulation. Blowing insulation produces dust that is harmful to the lungs and irritating to the eyes. Wear protective gears such as gloves and respirator to protect your health.

5. Preventing Fires

Avoid installing combustible materials within 2 inches of flue pipes. Mobile home flue pipes should have at least double or triple walls. Install extra metal pipe sleeve and metal collar at the ceiling or use noncombustible materials such as fiberglass to further contain the warm surface of flues.

6. Cleaning the Roof

Clean the roof before applying any sealant as the compound will not adhere properly to a dirty roof. Brush away any dirt, leaves or twigs that have settled on the roof. Once it is clean, look for cracks and holes and apply the sealant. Avoid walking on the roof while applying the sealant to ensure maximum adhesion. Use a ladder for those hard-to-reach areas.

7. Apply Sealant Twice

Double coatings are always better than one. Apply the sealant twice on the roof but allow the first layer to completely dry off before adding the second coating. Using a roller is preferable since you do not want to step on the roof while applying the sealant.

The rising number of people using metal roofs indicates the increasing popularity of this type of roofing. People who prefer metal roof do so for a variety of reasons, among which are durability (they are strong and fire-resistant), aesthetics appeal (available in different colors, shapes and designs) and energy-efficiency (reduction in power bills).

Metal roofing materials and designs are available for DIY metal roof enthusiasts. Doing it yourself means the finished project will be exactly according to your specifications and style plus you save money that would have been spent for contractor’s fees. If you are comfortable working with metals and not squeamish about heights, we have practical tips for you in installing metal roofs.

Tools Required

You can use standard hand tools to install metal roofs. These are hammer, screws, nails, tape measure, drill, chalk line, screw gun and metal snips. An electric metal shear is best for cutting panels, but a circular saw with abrasive blade can also do the job. For fastening metal plates together, both nails and screws will work just fine. Screws are, however, preferred by roofers because they offer superior resistance against pullout.

Prepare a Sketch and Measurement

Measure the areas to be covered by the roof. You will need precise measurements of the various parts (such as eaves lengths, chimneys, ridge length and valleys). Take several pictures of the roof from different positions and angles. This will aid you in preparing an accurate diagram, which in turn will help your local hardware facilitate the preparation of roofing materials.

Remove the Old Roof

We recommend removing the old roof before installing the new metal roofing for better foundation. Remove them when the weather is sunny since rains could ruin the materials inside the building. Start from the highest point on the roof.

Use Quality Underlayment

Use a high-quality  underlayment before installing the metal material on the roof to guard against water infiltration and block out moisture between the metal and sheathing. A rubber underlayment at the eaves and beyond the exterior wall is advisable in cold climate to address water damage caused by ice damming.

Avoid Lead Pencils

Do not use standard lead or graphite pencils in marking panels because they speed up the rate of corrosion of the metal. Use a masking tape instead—it not only prevents corrosion but can be easily seen on the roof.

Professional Services

While you can probably complete the entire roof yourself, it is sometimes advisable to let professionals do certain parts to make sure they are done properly. These are the areas that require intricate workmanship that only experienced roofers could properly accomplish such as chimneys and skylights.